Bullets Jaffa, Theatre and Purim

Most of the group started the day by driving to Rehovot to see the Ayalon Institute.

This place provides a powerful story about resourceful actions taken by the Yishuv (the Jewish community in Palestine before the declaration of the state). While the British prevented the Haganah to acquire arms to defend themselves against the Arab attacks a bullet production factory was built underground and a kibbutz was built on top of it to conceal its presence. In brief, a small group of young idealists in their twenties took an oath in pre-state Israel to undertake a secret mission without even knowing what it was about. What they in fact embarked upon were 3 years making bullets in total secrecy underneath a laundry and bakery on the premises of a new small kibbutz. The underground chamber was built in 3 weeks to respond to the dire need for bullets in the fight for independence. Bullet making equipment was smuggled from abroad and lowered into the subterranean “factory” at night under the noses of the equal number of kibbutz members who had no notion of the activity below for its 3 years running just prior to the establishment of the state (when secrecy was no longer necessary). Those “not in the know” were aptly dubbed “giraffes.” Those secret bullet makers went down and up each day by a steep staircase under a moving washing machine, came up for lunch in the communal dining room (to avoid undue suspicion) and underwent each day a protocol to minimize/erase telltale signs of their work, e.g.,, removing bullet shavings from clothing and shoes, sitting in a booth under ultra-violet light to get rid of skin pallor and taking extra vitamins to compensate for the absence of sunlight. They produced 12,000 bullets a day.

The group then met in Jaffa by the port to explore this part of the Tel Aviv-Jaffa municipality. Jaffa is a city that predates Abraham and is mentioned as the port city from which Jonah sailed to escape his calling by God. We walked by the area closest to the sea and also saw the new restaurants and social gathering spots that have been constructed turning the area from a small fishing port to an entertainment center in the manner of the Port of Tel Aviv on the northern part of the city.
We continued up through the twisting narrow alleys of the old city, which now has been renovated. Near the center square we were able to look out towards the modern city and sky scrapers of Tel Aviv. 

After a lunch break, when a few went to the famous Abulafias Bakery and others spread to a variety of places, we gathered at the Jaffa Theatre. There we met with the two artistic directors Igal Ezraty and Gaby Aldor of the Arab-Hebrew Theatre, as well as with a Nadia Hilo, a Christian Arab woman, who has been deeply involved in the community. She has worked for the municipality, has been a social worker and was even elected for a short time to the Knesset on the Labor Party ticket.
First Igal spoke of the theatre and what they try to doo even beyond the artistic presentations of shows. Some plays are connected with social issues of the community and the life and relationships of Israeli Jews and Arabs. Some plays are simply that, Shakespeare, Neil Simon or Edward Albee. Some of their work goes beyond traditional theatre bringing Jews and Arabs together, young and old. Then they spoke of social and political issues and how they see Jaffa as a Jewish and Arab city, sometimes working together, as they did to protect a view from a park and sometimes struggling with social realities. This was a fascinating look through this theatre into Jaffa and certain aspects of Israel as a country with Jews and non-Jews as resident citizens. It was also enlightening to see how they at times varied in their perspectives.
We walked down the hill to take bus and drive to Kibbutz Gezer, to meet with Rabbi Miri Gold, her husband David Leichman and celebrate Purim with Kehillat Birkat Shalom.

David met us at the gate into the kibbutz and directed us to the baseball field where he spoke a bit about the history of this kibbutz as well as its unique connection to baseball. David spoke of the importance of context of language as well as the changes at Gezer from an idealistic kibbutz to the kibbutz community that now exists with a great deal more individualism.
Rabbi Gold (Miri) mentioned her path to become a rabbi as well as to receive fair compensation from the government which pays Orthodox community rabbis. She has finally received her first pay after over 8 years of court case brought about by the Israel Religious Action Center (IRAC) for Reform and Conservative rabbis. They also spoke about particular aspects of Jewish identity for Israelis that varies a great deal from the way American Jews see themselves and identify with their heritage.
We made our way over to the kibbutz dining hall (no longer used for dining as all meals are eaten privately in people’s own homes) to celebrate Purim and hear the Megillah. They had their own Purim shtick and we enjoyed the festive atmosphere. We wore costumes and brought our own graggers which we left behind for the congregation. Of course we ate some hamantaschen.
Back to the hotel where some collapsed into bed and others had meals either in the hotel or out in Tel Aviv.
Chag Purim Samayach!